Royalty Reborn

After a $100 million restoration, Bermuda’s Hamilton Princess is looking—and feeling—more splendidly regal than ever.



Isn’t it every girl’s dream to be a princess? It was almost as nice, I can report, to spend a few days living like one—at the Hamilton Princess on the beautiful island of Bermuda.

I’d stayed at Bermuda’s other “Princess”—the Fairmont Southampton, formerly the Southampton Princess—decades ago and vowed to check out her sister urban luxury resort someday. What better time than after a comprehensive restoration?

The Hamilton Princess sits on the outskirts of Hamilton, Bermuda’s capital and financial center, and first welcomed guests in 1885, two years after a real-life princess, Louise, a daughter of Queen Victoria, was enchanted by the island. It was Louise who inspired the five-star resort’s name. No doubt she’d be equally pleased with its recent $100 million facelift. Only the best for royalty!


The Pink Palace, as the hotel has been called, does not disappoint. While I was still awed by its classic exterior, there, suddenly, was a contemporary lobby with jaw-dropping, museum-quality pieces by noted artists. Lots of hotels have fine art, but this one makes you feel as if you’ve walked into a world-class gallery.

Any old dame is sure to feel like young royalty feasting on cuisine by celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson or taking a curated art tour, ogling the more than 60-piece collection by the likes of Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons, Damien Hirst and Tom Wesselmann, or lying semisubmerged on beach hammocks suspended over vibrant blue waters, or unwinding at a new Exhale-branded spa, a sprawling—8,200- square-foot—yet serene spa and fitness center overlooking the harbor. Less than two hours from the U.S. East Coast, Bermuda is part of a 21-square mile, 180-island archipelago in the middle of the Atlantic. It’s perfect for those craving prim-and-proper British civility (think afternoon tea and cricket matches) amid gorgeous beaches and friendly people clad, of course, in the shorts that share the island’s name.

It’s no wonder the resort is popular among both vacationers and businesspeople: It’s amazingly well-run; soon after arriving I felt that here all my needs would be met. Rooms and suites come with harbor, garden, pool or city views. Ours overlooked the harbor, and I must admit that sipping a cocktail on the balcony above the 60-berth marina and watching the comings and goings of superyachts can be hypnotic. Bathrooms are modern marble marvels with a lovely line of Le Labo Rose 31 toiletries.

When it’s time to dine, the Hamilton Princess offers choices that put to shame the cookiecutter eateries at many resorts. The 1609 Bar and Restaurant, named for the year the first colony was established here, is the only one at the new marina and offers fresh-from-theboat seafood, salads, sandwiches and burgers.

We loved the charred octopus, crispy conch fritters and fish tacos for lunch. For breakfast, the Crown & Anchor boasts a huge buffet (a la carte choices too), and you can dine alfresco. The hotel’s crowning culinary glory is Marcus’, Chef Samuelsson’s ode to island fare. The “Ol’ Man’s Shrimp & Grits” was lick-yourplate good; the “Steak Frites” a carnivore’s delight. We ate there twice, and both times were wonderful: fresh, delicious food (think multilayered flavors), great service and perfect people-watching.

While you can easily lounge around the hotel and feel completely content, a playground beckons. For one thing, Bermuda is a golf lovers’ dream, with more courses per capita than anywhere else in the world. One awardwinning course, Robert Trent Jones’ Port Royal, has stunning views of the ocean. In fact, the 16th hole requires a 235-yard shot over the Atlantic.

As one would expect, Bermuda is one of the best places to sail (no wonder the island played host to the 35th staging of America’s Cup last summer, beating out respected sailing venues like Newport and San Diego). You don’t need to be a professional contender to enjoy the sport: The island’s Great Sound, with warm water and perfect wind—usually around 10–15 miles per hour—makes it ideal for an afternoon of zipping along the sea.


Lazier types will delight in one of the pinktinged sand beaches (the hue comes from crushed coral from the nearby reef) that line the 75 miles of coastline. Most of the action is at sea level, of course, but if you want to see everything, head underground too. The Crystal & Fantasy Caves in Hamilton have beautiful natural rock formations that are reflected in the caves’ 55-foot-deep pool, giving it an otherworldly feel.

History buffs will rejoice in the maritime heritage of this British naval stronghold. Some 91 old forts dot the island and many are open to the public. The Royal Naval Dockyard (it’s been there since the 17th century) is interesting but a tad touristy, as it’s close to the cruise ship port. Check out Fort Hamilton in Pembroke Parish for a less crowded look at old military might. Another fine choice, Fort St. Catherine, is located in St. George, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which was founded in 1612. You’ll be exploring on foot, as no car rentals are allowed. If you must have wheels, rent a scooter (remember to “drive” on the left). Or, better yet, buckle up in one of the Hamilton Princess’s two-seat Renault Twizy electric vehicles. The narrow, four-wheel Twizy, a compound of “twin” and “easy,” was designed by Renault’s Formula One racing team and can travel up to 50 miles on a single charge. We found it perfect for touring St. George and drove it to Gibbs Hill Lighthouse, one of the oldest cast-iron lighthouses in the world.

All that exploring is sure to make you hungry again. Why not try the fish chowder, which is about as close to a national dish as you’ll find? It’s a Manhattanchowderesque number prepared with tomatoes and onion and seasoned with black rum. Should you get thirsty, every bar proudly serves the Dark ’n Stormy, the island’s signature cocktail. Made with dark rum and ginger beer, the tipple is trademarked by Gosling’s Rum, the oldest and largest export business on the island. It’s a refreshing concoction that in no way resembles the cloyingly sweet rum punches we’ve all tried on other islands.

Raise your glass to offer a royal toast—not so much to this delightful visit, but perhaps, to your next.

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February 2020

Court Gallery This exhibition is an exploration of Paterson, New Jersey and the Northeastern region through bodies of water­­––an investigation of ecology and landscape that fosters a closer...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
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Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
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East Gallery This exhibition features recent artist books and prints by Casey Gardner, the Grand Prize recipient of the 2018 Ink, Press, Repeat exhibition. Drawing inspiration from cartography,...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
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Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

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South Gallery ABOUT THE COMPETITION  Since 2001, the University Galleries at William Paterson University has organized a juried printmaking exhibition featuring traditional and digital print...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
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Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
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Come celebrate Washington's Birthday with the Bergen County Historical Society at Historic New Bridge Landing. The Tricorne Dance Ensemble which is under the direction of dance mistress Denise...

Cost: $12 adults, $7 students, BCHS members free

Where:
Historic New Bridge Landing
1201 Main Street
River Edge, NJ  07661
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Sponsor: Bergen County Historical Society
Telephone: 201-343-9492
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The Roosevelt String Band returns in celebration of Morven’s exhibition Dreaming of Utopia: Roosevelt, New Jersey to present an encore performance with songs to warm the heart including Bill...

Cost: $10; Free to Friends of Morven

Where:
Morven Museum & Garden
55 Stockton Street
Princeton, NJ  08540
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Sponsor: Morven Museum and Garden
Telephone: 609-924-8144
Contact Name: Debra Lampert-Rudman
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The most classic of all fairy tales springs to life in this fast-paced musical production featuring ragged Cinderella and the handsome prince looking for a bride.Please note: This sensory-friendly...

Cost: $10-$12

Where:
William Paterson University Shea Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
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Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

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Court Gallery This exhibition is an exploration of Paterson, New Jersey and the Northeastern region through bodies of water­­––an investigation of ecology and landscape that fosters a closer...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

East Gallery This exhibition features recent artist books and prints by Casey Gardner, the Grand Prize recipient of the 2018 Ink, Press, Repeat exhibition. Drawing inspiration from cartography,...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

South Gallery ABOUT THE COMPETITION  Since 2001, the University Galleries at William Paterson University has organized a juried printmaking exhibition featuring traditional and digital print...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

Join us for partially guided meditations every Monday afternoon from 1:10-1:45pm. Learn to mediate or expand your current practice. Come experience the benefits of meditation and...

Cost: Free

Where:
Ramapo College of New Jersey
505 Ramapo Valley Road
Mahwah, NJ  07430
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Sponsor: Krame Center
Telephone: 201-684-6855
Contact Name: Vijosa Hoxha
Website »

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Court Gallery This exhibition is an exploration of Paterson, New Jersey and the Northeastern region through bodies of water­­––an investigation of ecology and landscape that fosters a closer...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

South Gallery ABOUT THE COMPETITION  Since 2001, the University Galleries at William Paterson University has organized a juried printmaking exhibition featuring traditional and digital print...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

East Gallery This exhibition features recent artist books and prints by Casey Gardner, the Grand Prize recipient of the 2018 Ink, Press, Repeat exhibition. Drawing inspiration from cartography,...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

Court Gallery This exhibition is an exploration of Paterson, New Jersey and the Northeastern region through bodies of water­­––an investigation of ecology and landscape that fosters a closer...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

South Gallery ABOUT THE COMPETITION  Since 2001, the University Galleries at William Paterson University has organized a juried printmaking exhibition featuring traditional and digital print...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

East Gallery This exhibition features recent artist books and prints by Casey Gardner, the Grand Prize recipient of the 2018 Ink, Press, Repeat exhibition. Drawing inspiration from cartography,...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

Join us for partially guided meditations on Wednesday evenings. Learn to mediate or expand your current practice. Come experience the benefits of meditation and practice in community....

Cost: Free

Where:
Ramapo College of New Jersey
505 Ramapo Valley Road
Mahwah, NJ  07430
View map »


Sponsor: Krame Center
Telephone: 201-684-6855
Contact Name: Vijosa Hoxha
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

Court Gallery This exhibition is an exploration of Paterson, New Jersey and the Northeastern region through bodies of water­­––an investigation of ecology and landscape that fosters a closer...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

East Gallery This exhibition features recent artist books and prints by Casey Gardner, the Grand Prize recipient of the 2018 Ink, Press, Repeat exhibition. Drawing inspiration from cartography,...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

South Gallery ABOUT THE COMPETITION  Since 2001, the University Galleries at William Paterson University has organized a juried printmaking exhibition featuring traditional and digital print...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

WP Composers-In-Residence Day Admission:  Free!

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Shea Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

Join us for partially guided meditations every Monday afternoon from 1:10-1:45pm. Learn to mediate or expand your current practice. Come experience the benefits of meditation and...

Cost: Free

Where:
Ramapo College of New Jersey
505 Ramapo Valley Road
Mahwah, NJ  07430
View map »


Sponsor: Krame Center
Telephone: 201-684-6855
Contact Name: Vijosa Hoxha
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

Court Gallery This exhibition is an exploration of Paterson, New Jersey and the Northeastern region through bodies of water­­––an investigation of ecology and landscape that fosters a closer...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

South Gallery ABOUT THE COMPETITION  Since 2001, the University Galleries at William Paterson University has organized a juried printmaking exhibition featuring traditional and digital print...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

East Gallery This exhibition features recent artist books and prints by Casey Gardner, the Grand Prize recipient of the 2018 Ink, Press, Repeat exhibition. Drawing inspiration from cartography,...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

What is the temperature at which book paper ignites? Fahrenheit 451 is the answer. Bergen Community College’s BergenStages theatre troupe takes on and presents the powerful drama, Fahrenheit...

Cost: $15 tickets with discounts for senior citizens, faculty, staff, and students

Where:
Ender Hall Theatre at Bergen Community College
400 Paramus Road
Paramus, NJ  07652
View map »


Telephone: 201-447-7428
Contact Name: Ticket Box Office
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

East Gallery This exhibition features recent artist books and prints by Casey Gardner, the Grand Prize recipient of the 2018 Ink, Press, Repeat exhibition. Drawing inspiration from cartography,...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

South Gallery ABOUT THE COMPETITION  Since 2001, the University Galleries at William Paterson University has organized a juried printmaking exhibition featuring traditional and digital print...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

Court Gallery This exhibition is an exploration of Paterson, New Jersey and the Northeastern region through bodies of water­­––an investigation of ecology and landscape that fosters a closer...

Cost: Free

Where:
William Paterson University Ben Shahn Center
300 Pompton Road
Wayne, NJ  07470
View map »


Sponsor: William Paterson University
Telephone: 908-370-4221
Contact Name: Zach Hertz
Website »

More information

What is the temperature at which book paper ignites? Fahrenheit 451 is the answer. Bergen Community College’s BergenStages theatre troupe takes on and presents the powerful drama, Fahrenheit...

Cost: $15 tickets with discounts for senior citizens, faculty, staff, and students

Where:
Ender Hall Theatre at Bergen Community College
400 Paramus Road
Paramus, NJ  07652
View map »


Telephone: 201-447-7428
Contact Name: Ticket Box Office
Website »

More information

Show More...
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