A World of Treats
Every country has a traditional dessert that's been satisfying sweets lovers for centuries
What can one learn about the nations of the Earth by sampling their cherished native desserts? We’re not sure, but we know the research process is a delicious one.
On the following pages, join us for a delectable international tasting tour of nine countries and the after-dinner palate pleasers—from puffy pastries to piquant pies—that they call particularly their own. Methods of preparation have been modernized, but they remain largely true to their origins—dipped, rolled, sprinkled, baked and/or fried to a blissful fare-thee-well that will have dessert lovers licking their lips.
Romania Chimney Cake
Known as kürt skalács in the native tongue, chimney cakes date back to the 15th century, when they were baked over hot coals in the medieval kitchens of Transylvania. These truncated treats have since become popular throughout Eastern Europe and are a perfect combination of crisp and fluffy. To create them, dough is rolled into an even strip, wrapped around a wooden or steel cooking roll and baked to crusty perfection. Their cone shape gives them a distinctive appearance, while the slightly sweetened yeast dough and walnut cinnamon-sugar topping make them nearly impossible to resist. Once a popular wedding treat, chimney cakes are now part of everyday meals, baked to a shade of golden brown that would make Dracula salivate.
The Chimney Cake Factory Food truck servicing Monmouth County 908.839.0111 thechimneycakefactory.com
Argentina Pastelito
Central to Argentine culture, pastelitos are often shown in artists’ renderings of the 1810 revolution that led to the nation’s freedom from Spanish rule. More than 200 years later, these puffy pastries remain a staple of Argentine dessert fare and are seen as a symbol of independence when served during celebrations of May 25 aka May Revolution Day. Pastelitos are made primarily of pastry dough and either sweet potato puree or quince paste, a sweet, thick jelly derived from the pulp of quince fruit. And though it’s tempting to cheat with ready-made squares of puff pastry or—heaven forbid—wonton wrappers, true pastelitos are made from dough that is kneaded well and rolled to 1/16 of an inch. They are then formed to resemble stars and submerged in hot oil, separating into many layers for that classic “flower” formation. Never has a history lesson tasted so good.
Argentina Bakery, Inc. 1611 Bergenline Ave. Union City 201.601.5801
South Africa Koeksister
Warning: koeksisters are likely to cause sticky fingers and can be extremely habit-forming. Pronounced “cook sisters,” these South African donuts are sweet and crunchy with hints of cinnamon, ginger and lemon. With a name derived from the Dutch word “koekje”—often interpreted as “cookie”— they are not only sold by vendors on the streets of Johannesburg and other cities but have also made their way onto the shelves of many South African grocery stores. Koeksisters were originally brought to the region by Malaysian workers and are now enjoyed as a mid-day snack (or for breakfast, for those feeling particularly decadent), but they’re also special enough for birthdays and holiday parties. The baking process involves braiding thin strips of dough into a rope shape, which is submerged in hot oil and dipped into an irresistible bowl of sugary syrup or honey. Note: Koeksisters are best served with a cup of hot tea and plenty of wet napkins.
Order online: Koeksister & Co. koeksisterco.co.za
Russia Vatrushka
From Russia (with love) comes the vatrushka (pronounced vat-ROOSH-kah), a round pie topped with sweetened cottage cheese and usually sprinkled with raisins or dried fruit. The name is thought to derive from the word vatra, meaning “fire” in many Slavic languages, a reference to the way this treat is baked in a wood-fired oven. Vatrushkas vary in size from fiveinch personal-sized to almost three feet in diameter and are typically baked using a sweet yeast bread dough, though there are savory options made with unsweetened dough and topped with onion or ground meat. To liken it to a cheese Danish doesn’t do this delicacy justice. It’s closer to a pirozhki (Russian for “small pie”), with one major difference: While pirozhki are closed, vatrushkas are open-faced, or “sunny side up”—their thick, creamy topping in full view. No guilt, though, because cottage cheese is good for a diet, right? That’s what we keep telling ourselves.
Bear & Birch 6 Paragon Way, St. 108 Freehold 732.780.3354
Iran Kolompeh
Kolompehs are like snowflakes: No two are exactly alike. These delicate dessert pies are crafted in many sizes and formats, the top layer of dough carved either by hand or with a wooden stamp—some mass-produced, others hand-carved family heirlooms handed down through generations and often depicting bucolic nature scenes. Referred to as edible works of art, kolompehs originated in Kerman (also spelled Kirman), the capital city of Iran’s Kerman Province, where they were traditionally baked with local oils, Persian walnuts, cardamom, sesame and wheat flour. Today, industrially produced kolompehs have become popular souvenirs and are prepared with a variety of nuts and sometimes hints of cloves, saffron and rose water, and decorated with pistachio or sesame powder. The best part? These fragrant, flaky pies are made without sugar, deriving their sweetness from Medjool dates. All flavor; no regrets.
Order online: Persian Basket persianbasket.com
France Kouign Amann
Tracing its origins to France’s northwest cultural region of Brittany, kouign amann is not a dessert for the calorie counter. Pronouced kween ah-mon, its name translates from the Breton language as “butter cake,” with traditional recipes calling for almost as much butter as dough. Invented around 1860, kouign amann was traditionally served as slices from a large cake, though the trend has been toward individual cupcake-sized pastries, particularly in North America. It is considered the perfect (and most decadent) French breakfast pastry, a denser version of the croissant but with a healthy dose of sugar. Some say it’s more about technique than ingredients, as kouign amann is made from layering dough with sheets of butter, then folding it, rolling it out and repeating multiple times to create hundreds of layers. As it bakes, the butter-sugar mixture forms pockets of sweetness in the moist center, while the outside remains crispy, with a caramel-like coating around the edges. We’ll have ours with a café au lait, s’il vous plait.
The Gingered Peach 2 Gordon Ave. Lawrenceville Township 609.896.5848
Italy Origlietta
Origliettas are almost too pretty to eat. (That’s almost.) These lesserknown cousins of Italian desserts like cannoli, zeppoli and tiramisu are just as delectable—they’re rolled around a stick into an accordion shape and deep-fried in olive or seed oil. The result is a convoluted confection whose honey coating makes it that much more mouthwatering. And while some bakers fry them to a golden brown, others go for a translucent finish that means they’re sure to melt in your mouth. Origliettas originated in Sardinia, known for its elegant and irresistible desserts, and are a favorite treat at carnivals and other celebrations. Yet some would insist they’re best served in an Old World trattoria or on a quaint outdoor patio with a view of the crystal-clear Mediteranean Sea. One thing is for sure: Put them out at a party, and they’ll be gone before you can say “arrivederci!”
Carlo’s Bakery 86 Broad St. Red Bank 732.268.5200
Australia Lamington
As legend has it, the lamington was created quite by accident in the late 1800s. A maidservant of Lord Lamington, a Brit who served as the eighth governor of Queensland, mistakenly dropped the royal’s favorite sponge cake dessert into a bowl of melted chocolate. To keep his fingers from getting too messy, the governor rolled the confection in coconut, and the rest, as they say, is history. Known as the “National Cake of Australia,” this favorite is still a luscious combination of tender sponge cake, chocolate icing and shredded coconut, though there are variations that include a raspberry sauce coating and/or a layer of cream or strawberry jam between spongy halves. Affectionately called “lammos,” these “bloody, poofy, woolly biscuits” (as Lord Lamington actually described them) are so popular Down Under that in 2006, July 21 was declared National Lamington Day. How many desserts have a day all their own?
Order online: Tuck Shop 212.979.5200 tuckshopnyc.com
China Taro Bun
From the street carts of Beijing to the bakeries of Chinatown, these buttery buns are a delightful combination of chewy texture and light sweetness— they’re recognized mostly for their vividly purple filling, but there’s no food coloring on the ingredients list. The purple comes from taro, a vitamin-rich natural root vegetable that’s a dietary staple in Asia. To make this drool-worthy dessert, the sticky bun dough is brushed with an egg wash before baking to achieve a shiny gold coloring and can be topped with a few sliced almonds for an enticingly nutty flavor and crunch. Yet it’s really about the taro, which is sweeter than red bean paste but less sweet than custard or cream. The root is cooked to a puddinglike consistency and used as a filling, formed into a multi-layer marble shape or rolled inside the dough for a pinwheel effect. In any form, it’s a joyous celebration of purple yum.
Sunmerry Bakery 561 US-1 Edison 732.354.4378
