Use Your Noodle
FORGET TOMATO AND BASIL. PAIR THE ULTIMATE COMFORT FOOD WITH A HEARTY SAUCE AND FRESH INGREDIENTS. THE PASTA-BILITIES ARE ENDLESS.

REAL RAGU WITH TAGLIATELLE
Yields: 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
FOR THE RAGU SAUCE
- 2 Tbs. olive oil
- 3½ Tbs. unsalted butter
- 7 oz. smoked pancetta, finely chopped
- 1 onion, finely chopped
- 2 carrots, finely chopped
- 2 celery stalks, finely chopped
- 3 Tbs. tomato paste
- 1 Tbs. pumpkin pie spice
- 2 cups plus 2 Tbs. red wine
- 2 cups plus 2 Tbs. milk
- 2 dried bay leaves
- 2 rosemary sprigs
- fine sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper
- 2¼ lbs. beef brisket, cut into ½ inch dice
TO SERVE
- 18 oz. dry tagliatelle
- ⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil
- small handful of flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped
- 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
DIRECTIONS
In a large pot, heat the oil and butter over medium flame. When the butter has melted, add the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders down and the pancetta is only just slightly crispy. Add the onion, carrots and celery; stir to coat in all the fat; then cook very slowly, stirring every so often, until soft, a good 20 minutes at the very least.
Once the vegetables are soft, increase the heat to high and stir in the tomato paste and spice for a minute or two. Add the wine, milk and herbs. Add the chopped brisket and bring to a boil, then reduce to a very low simmer and cook, partially covered with a lid, for 3 hours. Give the pan a stir every so often to ensure the bottom isn’t catching.
When the ragu is ready—it will be thick and the meat will be oh-so-tender—season to taste. Cook the pasta according to the package directions, but ensure the water is very well salted. Reserve a generous ⅓ cup of the pasta cooking water, then drain the pasta. Add the pasta to the ragu pan along with the reserved pasta water, the olive oil and parsley. Stir well to mix. Sprinkle Parmesan on top and serve.
TAGLIATELLE WITH MUSHROOMS, BRANDY & GREEN PEPPERCORNS
Yields: 2 servings
INGREDIENTS
- 9 oz. dry tagliatelle
FOR THE SAUCE
- 1 Tbs. olive oil
- 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
- 1 onion, very finely chopped
- 3½ cups finely sliced cremini mushrooms
- 1 Tbs. dried green peppercorns
- ⅓ cup plus 1 Tbs. brandy
- ⅔ cup chicken stock
- ⅔ cup heavy cream
- fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
DIRECTIONS
Cook the pasta according to the package directions, but make sure you do so in very salty water. Once the pasta is cooked, drain it, reserving about 3½ Tbs. or so of the cooking water. Have the pasta handy.
FOR THE SAUCE
Heat a medium skillet over high heat. Once it is hot, add the oil and butter, along with the onion, mushrooms and peppercorns. Saut., stirring and tossing the pan continuously, for a few minutes, until the mushrooms wilt down and the onion is just slightly softened and colored. Add the brandy and let it bubble and evaporate almost entirely. Add the chicken stock and let that bubble and almost entirely evaporate. Add the cream, letting it bubble for one minute, then turn off the heat and season to taste.
Add the pasta to the pan and stir to coat well—if the sauce is a little thick, let it down with the reserved pasta water. Serve immediately.
LAMB WITH BLACK OLIVES IN ROSÉ WINE WITH WHOLE WHEAT PASTA
Yields: 2 servings
INGREDIENTS
FOR THE PASTA
- 14 oz. dry whole wheat pappardelle
- ⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil n small handful of flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped
FOR THE SAUCE
- 3½ Tbs. unsalted butter
- 1 Tbs. sunflower oil
- 1 onion, finely sliced
- 8 anchovy fillets from a jar, coarsely chopped
- 3 garlic cloves, crushed
- ½ cup pitted black ripe olives, coarsely chopped
- 18 oz. boneless lamb neck slices, diced
- 1¾ cups dry rosé wine
- 1¾ cups chicken stock
- 1 rosemary sprig
- fine sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper
DIRECTIONS
FOR THE SAUCE
Heat a large pot over high heat. Once hot, add the butter and oil, then the onion and anchovy fillets and saut., stirring until the onion starts to soften and color slightly. Add the garlic, olives and lamb and stir to coat, then add the wine, stock and rosemary. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook, partially covered, until the lamb is tender and the sauce has reduced, 2 to 3 hours. Give it a stir every so often.
Once the sauce is cooked, taste it before adding any salt or even pepper.
FOR THE PASTA
When the sauce is ready, cook the pasta according to the package directions, but ensure the water is very well salted. Reserve a generous ⅓ cup of the pasta cooking water, then drain the pasta well. Mix the pasta into the sauce along with the olive oil, reserved pasta cooking water and parsley before serving