FIRE-TESTED

For one restaurateur, a setback became a chance to upgrade a historic eatery, not abandon it

When a 2010 kitchen fire forced owners Constantine Papanicolaou and Victor Schipa to close the doors of the 170-year-old Metuchen Inn, Middlesex County lost an epicurean landmark— temporarily. But a year later the restaurant reopened, again offering fine American cuisine, but with a new focus on local ingredients. Middlesex Health & Life sat down with Papanicolaou:

HOW LONG HAVE YOU OWNED THE METUCHEN INN, AND HOW HAVE YOU CHANGED IT?

I bought the inn in 1994, and I’m one of the longest- lasting owners it’s ever had. When I took over, my goal was to keep the high- quality dishes the inn had been offering, but add more emphasis on freshness while still keeping the meals affordable. Sometimes, owners and chefs look to create a restaurant with a larger-than-life attitude—a place to go once a year, or once in a lifetime. Instead, I wanted to offer a consistent menu at a place where you can eat once a week without taking out a second mortgage. We’re considered one of the most romantic restaurants in Middlesex. Ours is an intimate setting that makes you feel almost like you’re dining in someone’s home. Victor joined me as co-owner in 2010, just before the fire.

TELL US ABOUT THE FIRE—AND THE REBUILDING.

An electrical fire that started in the kitchen destroyed the entire bar area and caused smoke and water damage to other sections of the restaurant. It was devastating when it happened, but I always planned on rebuilding and reopening. I knew the importance of having a historical land- mark restaurant in the community, and I knew it would be worth the work it took to get it up and running again.

Fortunately, it worked out for the best: The interior wasn’t completely destroyed, so we were able to maintain most of the building’s character. Also, the new appliances in the kitchen improved the efficiency of our service. But my favorite of the improvements we made was installing a taller bar. The new bar is just a few inches higher than the old one, but it makes for a more natural sit and a better work surface for the bartenders. It’s a small change that made a big difference.

WHAT ARE YOUR GOALS?

We hope to continue working as much as we can with local farmers and markets. We are fortunate to live in a sustainable farming area, and we want to take full advantage of that. Victor and I will arrive at a market or farm around 2 a.m. to make sure we get our hands on the freshest ingredients possible. And we look for pluses—for instance, thanks to a warm season we were able to get black sea bass on our menu in January. It’s not normally available in winter.

WHY ARE YOU COMMITTED TO PURCHASING FROM LOCAL PURVEYORS?

We recognize that it is important to give back to the community, and working with local businesses is our way of doing that. We do about 90 percent of our business right here in Metuchen. When we were rebuilding and remodeling after the fire, all of our resources—from the architect to the interior designer who helped us make decisions to the individuals who sold us the supplies—were from Metuchen and surrounding towns. —MAUREEN SCULLY

GETTING THERE:

METUCHEN INN

424 Middlesex Ave., Metuchen

732.494.6444

themetucheninn.net