Island Idyll
People not only travel to get away; sometimes they travel to get together. On Turks & Caicos you can live like a well-to-do islander, if only temporarily.
People not only travel to get away; sometimes they travel to get together.
When that’s your goal, renting a villa can offer more intimacy and character, not to mention more perks, than staying at a resort. So when a group of friends and I decided we needed to decompress and savor the simple pleasures of island life—like snorkeling, bike riding or walking on a deserted beach—we agreed to rent a villa in lieu of a luxury hotel.
First, which island? Turks & Caicos in the West Indies was an easy choice, as it has been a favorite of ours. Dangling just southeast of the Bahamas, the archipelago consists of 40 islands and cays divided into two groups (the Turks to the southeast, the Caicos to the northwest); only eight of these islands are inhabited. Most tourist activities center in Providenciales (aka “Provo”), at the island chain’s western tip. Despite recent developments, Provo’s sleepy bohemian vibe remains essentially unchanged.
The hot spot in Provo is Grace Bay, a 12-mile stretch of white sand lined by resorts and full of travelers looking to unwind from the stresses of modern life. Many of them dig their toes into the powdery sand, gaze out at the mesmerizing turquoise water and find it nearly impossible to rouse from their beach chairs.
Our villa, the Fleur de Lys, was just past Grace Bay in an area known as Leeward, just close enough to the “action,” but removed enough to offer a feeling of true tranquility. Located in a private gated community, the villa featured a lush garden in a central courtyard, the perfect gathering spot for a dip in the pool or a soak in the whirlpool. We could meet for drinks in the tiki bar, grill up some island fish kabobs or just sprawl on a chaise and read. A few of us had never used an outdoor shower (one of my favorite things; don’t worry about forgetting shampoo, it’s in there), and one beckoned just beyond the pool. Each of the four bedrooms, including a three-room master suite and one nestled in a separate guest cottage, offered sumptuous towels, hair dryers, iPod docking stations and stereo music systems. There was a fully equipped kitchen and a living room with an in-home theater featuring a 100-inch drop-down screen. On cooler days, the ceiling fans and island breeze were enough to refresh, but it was nice to have air conditioning too on the couple of days when the mercury soared.
If you choose to weave around the island’s sandy lanes on bikes, you’ll find them in the storage shed (helmets too), or you can rent a car. (It’s easy to navigate the lightly trafficked island, though islanders do drive on the left, which takes a little getting used to.) The beach closest to the villa, Leeward Beach, is within walking distance. There you’ll find satin-soft white sand, calm turquoise water, interesting rock formations and few, if any, people.
On any given day, our diversions might include snorkel trips such as the one we took to Coral Gardens, boat excursions to colorful cays, spa visits for some first-class coddling or simply relaxing on a slice of stunning beach. We did rouse ourselves to sample several great local dining spots. For example, Las Brisas on Chalk Sound is perched at a slight elevation and offers spectacular views plus wonderful tapas (the lobster salad and the shrimp and fried plantains were my favorites) and great mojitos. Try sitting at the gazebo for the best views and breezes. You’ll also enjoy breezes at the dining terrace overlooking the marina at Turtle Cove when you dine at Baci. Here you’ll find Italian specialties; just be sure to save room for dessert. (I was sweet on the chocolate paté served with crème anglaise and fruit coulis.) If you feel like having sushi, Yoshi Sushi has some of the best I’ve ever tasted. And for a truly special meal, dine at Stelle at the Gansevoort. You’ll be served from a Mediterranean-inspired menu showcasing fresh local fare, and you’ll dine by the 7,000-square-foot infinity pool surrounded by towering palm trees sheathed in dazzling lights.
But don’t underestimate the fun you’ll have shopping the local markets and cooking or barbecuing at “home.” Lazy evenings with everyone pitching in to cook and concocting a new batch of cocktails can be a vacation highlight. It was for us.
In the end, a villa vacation turned out to be the best of both worlds. We could get away from it all and get together. Now that’s paradise.
