Let's Tie One On
Here’s how to master the four main knots for neckties—with subtleties courtesy of fashion pros at Sal Lauretta in Midland Park.
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The Four-in-HandThis is the simplest knot to tie and the most popular. It’s also the most versatile knot, in that it works with any collar style, from tab to button-down to cutaway. Because the four-in-hand is slightly asymmetrical, it has a jaunty quality—the desirable appearance that it was tied nonchalantly, perhaps without benefit of a mirror. Key tips: Before you pull the knot tight, pay attention to the fabric directly above and below the knot. The fabric on top should be pulled taut horizontally, while the fabric below the knot should be pinched to form a dimple, says Jorge Hernandez of Sal Lauretta. Tighten the knot so it has a subtle arch, and then be sure to pull it tight to the collar.This is the simplest knot to tie and the most popular. It’s also the most versatile knot, in that it works with any collar style, from tab to button-down to cutaway. Because the four-in-hand is slightly asymmetrical, it has a jaunty quality—the desirable appearance that it was tied nonchalantly, perhaps without benefit of a mirror. Key tips: Before you pull the knot tight, pay attention to the fabric directly above and below the knot. The fabric on top should be pulled taut horizontally, while the fabric below the knot should be pinched to form a dimple, says Jorge Hernandez of Sal Lauretta. Tighten the knot so it has a subtle arch, and then be sure to pull it tight to the collar.
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The Prince AlbertThis knot is an elegant variation on the four-in-hand: Rather than passing the wide end of the tie once in front of the skinny end, you pass the wide end around a second time. Poke the wide end in between the two loops of the knot, and pull tight. You’ll end up with an elongated knot, which is great for collars with long points or if you want to shorten the tie. A neat variation (call it the Sal Lauretta) is to poke the wide end under the inner loop of the knot. When you tighten the knot, you’ll be able to see a bit of the inner loop peeking under the outer loop. As seen in the photo, this visible sliver of fabric is a cool something extra.This knot is an elegant variation on the four-in-hand: Rather than passing the wide end of the tie once in front of the skinny end, you pass the wide end around a second time. Poke the wide end in between the two loops of the knot, and pull tight. You’ll end up with an elongated knot, which is great for collars with long points or if you want to shorten the tie. A neat variation (call it the Sal Lauretta) is to poke the wide end under the inner loop of the knot. When you tighten the knot, you’ll be able to see a bit of the inner loop peeking under the outer loop. As seen in the photo, this visible sliver of fabric is a cool something extra.
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The Half-WindsorAlso known as a single Windsor, this knot is a bit chunkier and more triangular than the four-in-hand or Prince Albert, making it a somewhat more formal choice. Critics, however, say that the boxiness of the half-Windsor makes it less elegant and less pleasing to the eye—and therefore “less sartorial”—than its elongated cousins. (The theory is that the shape of the knot should echo the gorge of the suit jacket and the taper of the lapel.) The half-Windsor is best suited to wider ties made of light- or medium-weight fabrics. Key tips: Pull the knot tight to keep it from looking too square. Then pinch the sides to give them a little concavity.Also known as a single Windsor, this knot is a bit chunkier and more triangular than the four-in-hand or Prince Albert, making it a somewhat more formal choice. Critics, however, say that the boxiness of the half-Windsor makes it less elegant and less pleasing to the eye—and therefore “less sartorial”—than its elongated cousins. (The theory is that the shape of the knot should echo the gorge of the suit jacket and the taper of the lapel.) The half-Windsor is best suited to wider ties made of light- or medium-weight fabrics. Key tips: Pull the knot tight to keep it from looking too square. Then pinch the sides to give them a little concavity.
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The Full WindsorAlso known simply as the Windsor or the double Windsor, it was not named for the Duke of Windsor, portrayed as the nasty but natty older brother in The King’s Speech, but rather for his grandfather, Edward VII, who liked his ties chunky. A few caveats: Large and triangular, a Windsor knot fits only a spread or cutaway collar. This knot also eats up a lot of fabric, so it calls for an extra-long tie. (Having the short end of your tie peek out at mid-torso is decidedly un-cool.) Because of its bulk, the Windsor can distract from the wearer’s face, making it best suited to men with a broad, square or round face, or with facial hair.Also known simply as the Windsor or the double Windsor, it was not named for the Duke of Windsor, portrayed as the nasty but natty older brother in The King’s Speech, but rather for his grandfather, Edward VII, who liked his ties chunky. A few caveats: Large and triangular, a Windsor knot fits only a spread or cutaway collar. This knot also eats up a lot of fabric, so it calls for an extra-long tie. (Having the short end of your tie peek out at mid-torso is decidedly un-cool.) Because of its bulk, the Windsor can distract from the wearer’s face, making it best suited to men with a broad, square or round face, or with facial hair.
