Restaurant Review: Everything Italian
When New American bistro Due moved to another part of downtown Ridgewood, it vacated one of the most visible and historic storefronts in the village’s central business district.
When New American bistro Due moved to another part of downtown Ridgewood, it vacated one of the most visible and historic storefronts in the village’s central business district. It’s steps from the heavily foot-trafficked train station (and its eastern parking lot) and adjacent to the spot where the annual Christmas tree is erected.
So who’s worthy of taking over such an enviable location in this ultracompetitive restaurant town? Industry vets Tim Hanley and Rocco Trisolini, that’s who. The duo already owns artisanal pizzeria S. Egidio up the street, and now they’re teaming with rising culinary star Vincent Forchelli and renowned pastry chef Heather Bertinetti Rozzi at Stella Artisan Italian.
Stella has already been likened to Eataly in New York City—it’s part market, part takeout counter and part restaurant. Handmade pastas are available for purchase by the pound, and you’ll always be tempted to pick up desserts, pastries and jars of homemade sauces.
Small breakfast items and sandwiches for lunch are available, but dinner is the star of the show—the seasonal menu is conceived and prepared by Forchelli, a former sous chef at Landmarc Restaurant in Manhattan’s Time Warner Center and the popular Hudson Water Club in West Haverstraw, N.Y. When my dining companion and I were seated at a candlelit table in the middle of the cozy shop, our waiter filled our water glasses, which are made from recycled wine bottles. (Stella is BYO, so he removed the stemware from the table when he saw we arrived sans vino.)
Before scanning the menu, I caught a glimpse of the wonderful assortment of Italian charcuterie arranged behind the glass counter—I wanted some of that! To my delight, the appetizer list included a meat-and-cheese sampler featuring a curated selection of mouth-watering salumi served on crispy gnocco fritto with a small arugula salad. My friend opted for the scallops, which were seared to perfection and topped with bacon. She noted that the creamy pumpkin, pear and butter purée gave the dish an ideal sweet and savory balance. I sampled it and wholeheartedly agreed.
Since all pastas are made in-house, I had to try one for my main course. True to the eatery’s artisanal influence, the choices aren’t typical—you won’t find baked ziti, spaghetti with meatballs or grandma’s lasagna. I grew up in a household where squid ink was frequently used in meals, so the squid ink fusilli beckoned. The pasta was a spot-on al dente; it came with a generous amount of sliced cuttlefish and burst with flavor from a sauce made of bone marrow, tomato, garlic and chili. It could have easily been a heavy plate, like many pasta dishes tend to be, but mine was surprisingly light and satisfying at the same time. Jimmy, the manager on duty who doubled as our server that night, offered a similar remark when he checked in with us during the meal.
My companion ordered from the “Carne Grande” portion of the menu, selecting the roasted chicken. The piping-hot plate arrived with a half-chicken on a bed of creamy polenta, mushroom and radicchio. Struck by the intermingling flavors of the tangy sauce and juicy chicken—straight from Goffle Road Poultry Farm in Wyckoff—my friend seemed more focused on her food than my pleasant company.
An Italian meal wouldn’t be complete without dessert. I capped the night with a cup of coffee and a divine lemon meringue tart, with its sweet and sour flavors dancing on every taste bud. I wish I loved chocolate like my friend, whose blissful reactions after each bite of her chocolate hazelnut cake told a story without words.
The food at Stella isn’t inexpensive, but the near-perfection of the food, excellent service and friendliness of the gingham shirt–wearing staff make it worth the splurge.
Stella Artisan Italian, 18 E. Ridgewood Ave., 201.857.2677
