St. Barts: A Beauty on the Beach
Luxury has a Gallic accent at the Cheval Blanc St.-Barth Isle de France
If the Hotel St.-Barth Isle de France were a woman, you could say she married well.
French luxury brand LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) could have its choice of lovely “mademoiselles” when searching for a suitable match in North America, but the boutique hotel on Anse des Flamands, probably the prettiest beach on the island, won out and after a year-long engagement (read: renovation), it joined the exalted Cheval Blanc family. (Other family members include Courchevel in France and Randheli in the Maldives.)
Enjoy cocktails for two with a breathtaking view from this private ocean-facing perch.
Perhaps the best part of the union is that it appears that little has changed at the beloved hotel, now called the Cheval Blanc St.-Barth Isle de France. The staff—the hotel’s heart and soul—remains the same: affable, accommodating to a fault and decidedly French. The only difference is that now they don charming seersucker uniforms. Similar too are the guest quarters—40 suites, bungalows and villas, which feel less like hotel rooms than the bedrooms of a Provençal family. The whitewashed country furnishings have been upgraded with the brand’s signature taupe plus accents of the palest salmon-pink, which you’ll find on everything from beach towels to pillows to glassware. Thankfully, the popular daily fashion shows remain too. They feature resort wear from the hotel’s closetsized boutique stuffed with everything from Pucci bikinis and stylish caftans to straw hats and jewelry. Don’t be surprised if the model, Roxane, looks familiar: When she’s not strolling the sandy catwalk, she’s taking your dinner order in a charmingly halting English.
a private pool, one of the many amenities of the tucked-away Garden Suites.
Oh, yes, the food. As a French territory, St. Barts not surprisingly has a cuisine that reminds you of dining in the south of France. Chef Yann Vinsot oversees a pair of excellent eateries on this property: La Case de L’Isle, featuring sophisticated French-Caribbean plates (plus a 150-odd selection of wines and champagnes) and the more casual La Cabane de L’Isle, site of the fashion shows.
Only eight miles across, St. Barts (short for St. Barthélemy and sometimes spelled St. Barth) is a hilly (thanks to a number of volcanic peaks) speck popping out of the northeast Caribbean in the French West Indies. Discovered by Christopher Columbus in 1493 (who named it for his brother Bartolomeo), the island was settled by the French and owned for a while by Sweden before returning to French control. It became chichi after the Rockefellers and Rothschilds fell for its charm in the mid-’50s.
Modeling the statement-making fashions available at the tony boutique.
With no direct flights, getting to St. Barts isn’t easy. Some folks fly to St. Maarten and take a short flight or ferry across. A more civilized crossing (read: easier) is flying to San Juan, then boarding a tiny puddle jumper. One of Tradewind Aviation’s multiple daily flights will do nicely. Its Pilatus PC-12s are comfortable and sturdy—important features as the eight-seater threads between two jagged peaks before touching down on a teensy runway. (Flights from St. Thomas and Antigua are also available.)
Snorkeling in the blue waters of the Caribbean right in the resort’s backyard.
While the atmosphere is relaxed, folks do dress to impress while shopping or dining in the capital city, Gustavia, with its yacht-lined harbor. (The island hosts one of the world’s most thrilling yacht races, Les Voiles de St. Barth.) Luxury brands abound along with unique boutiques, often outposts of exclusive Parisian designers.
Prefer to test your sea legs with a more gentle cruise? Rent a catamaran with crew for a day-long or half-day tour. Our captain, Miguel of St. Barth Sailor, anchored in the bay near Colombier, where we swam to the beach (the only one of 16 beaches not easily accessible), after which we sipped champagne and nibbled on a gourmet lunch prepared by Cheval Blanc (lest we miss the restaurants’ gastronomic delights too much).
The ultimate in luxury: a three-bedroom villa set on the white sand beach.
Back on terra firma, we proceeded to Bonito, where fashionistas flock to enjoy a delicious Latin American menu alongside unrivaled views of the harbor from an open-air pavilion.
If your “cruise” doesn’t offer enough of a respite, the spa back at Cheval Blanc will chase away any lingering stress. It offers signature Guerlain treatments. (It’s the only Guerlain spa in the Caribbean.) Try the Solar Escape, a body massage combined with a facial, or let a beauty coach choose an indulgent experience for you.
Salade niçoise, perfect for a light lunch.
Do you think you could enjoy an island with no casinos, no all-inclusives, no cruise ships in port? An island with no poverty, no crime, no beach vendors? With unfailingly polite people, awe-inspiring vistas, white sand (or shell or stone) beaches and top-notch cuisine?
I do.
