Eco-friendly sipping
If you’re a wine drinker who’s concerned about health and environmental responsibility, there’s good news. These days, vineyards that use earth-friendly, health-promoting agricultural techniques are producing some of the tastiest wines in the world.
If you’re a wine drinker who’s concerned about health and environmental responsibility, there’s good news. These days, vineyards that use earth-friendly, health-promoting agricultural techniques are producing some of the tastiest wines in the world.
“We all want to feel good about what we’re consuming,” says Don Carter, who has owned and operated The Wine Seller in Ridgewood for 16 years. “One way to do that is to choose organic or biodynamic wines.” These wines aren’t just kinder to the soil; there’s evidence that they’re kinder to our bodies as well, containing more of the cholesterol-reducing compound resveratrol and more of the vitamin C, iron, magnesium and phosphorous we need. And while they were once thought to require a compromise on taste, improved farming and wine-making techniques mean that’s no longer true.
For a wine to be called organic, says the U.S. Department of Agriculture, it must come from a vineyard that for at least three years has refrained from using genetically modified seeds, chemical fertilizers or pesticides. USDA labels that say “100 Percent Organic” or “Organic” (which requires that 95 percent of ingredients be certified organic) also mean that no sulfites have been added, while the phrase “Made with Organic Grapes” means that a wine has been produced using at least 70 percent organic ingredients, and sulfites may have been added up to 100 parts per million. (A word to the wise: Labels from other countries or international organizations may say “Certified Organic” even where the USDA says “Made with Organic Grapes.”)
Sulfites occur naturally in wine in small quantities as a by-product of the fermentation process. They have also been added to wines for centuries to prevent oxidation and spoilage. But in about 1 percent of the population, sulfites can cause allergic reactions such as asthma or stomach cramps. So choose wisely: If there’s a chance you’re allergic, stick with “100 Percent Organic” or “Organic” to minimize sulfites.
Biodynamic wines are another earth-friendly, pesticide-free option. They’re made from grapes grown in adherence to a farming system that was inspired by the teachings of the early 20th-century Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner, who originated Waldorf schools—a system reputed to be better for the soil. To be labeled “Biodynamic,” a wine must meet strict standards set by an international certifying body called the Demeter Association.
Biodynamic growing practices can sound kooky to the uninitiated: They include planting, pruning and harvesting by the moon’s phases, and sprinkling diluted cow manure on the vines. But many oenophiles believe biodynamic practices help sharpen a wine’s expression of what the French call “terroir”—the unique flavor of its place of origin.
Critics complain that the biodynamic approach has little scientific support, but there’s informal evidence that these farmers are onto something. In 2004, Fortune magazine pitted 20 biodynamic wines against similar conventional wines in a blind taste test, and 19 of the biodynamics were declared superior.
Organic
Badger Mountain
2009 Chardonnay
from Washington State’s Columbia River Valley, $14
“A clean, crisp wine with apple and pear flavors"
Made With Organic Grapes
Costa Al Sole
2009 Nero D’Avola
from Sicily, $10
“An easy-drinking wine with smoky black plum flavors and a hint of chocolate”
Biodynamic
M. Chapoutier
2008 Cotes du Roussillon Villages
from near France’s southernmost point, $15
“A full-bodied red with dark fruit flavors and dark chocolate notes in the finish”
